September was nearing, and 1907 was preparing to
open its new perfumery in Bratislava on Hviezdoslavo námestie in the passage of
the Carlton Hotel. It was opened on the 3d of September in great style, with a
news conference and gala opening in the hotels representative halls. Important
guests from the niche perfume world where invited to present to the Slovak
public the unknown, exceptional exclusive and independent perfume universe.
Between the invited guests could not be absent
the charismatic founder, owner and visionary of Puredistance Jan Ewoud Vos. For
the tall simpatico guy from the Netherlands, we prepared from the beginning a
small surprise. Our plan from the beginning was to get a real Aston Martin in
the halls of the hotel, as this car is linked to one of his creations, but
about that latter. Technical problems arised, so on the way to Bratislava, Evka Škovranová had an alternative idea. We will bring him a smaller version of
Aston Martin with a remote control. So my first meeting with Jan Ewoud Vos was
with the remote control in my hand, the small car on the floor that rushed from
behind the wall to the legs of Mr. Vos who was waiting at the reception.
His childlike enjoyment was clear when he took
from me the remote control. I was awaiting for a guy that is reserved and lets
you feel his achievements. To my surprise he was unbelievably human, congenial
and friendly. We sat down to a table, Jan order Jasmin tea, and the interview
can start. Mr. Vos is able to speak so engagingly with a depth, that you can
listen to him for hours. To publish all the content of my interview with him may come
to a small book, so I am choosing the parts that best describes Puredistance
and the personality of Jan Ewoud Vos.
1. Why the name
Puredistance, why specifically perfumes as the object of your interest, and why
specifically niche?
J.E.
Vos: Ok, so you want to write a book (laughing).
Those are three questions. Let’s start with the first. I woke up in the morning,
still napping, it was sometime before the new millennium, when the world was
still bathing in luxury. The crisis was not here yet, speculative bobbles where
rising, simply there was too much money. Everywhere gold, diamonds…..all this
produced a group of showy new rich people (mainly in China and Russia) without
taste and mannerism of style. That morning I had a dream, that I was at a party
where this type of persons where displaying themselves. It was in Amsterdam, in
an “inn” club, everyone was drunk, loud, keys from
Ferraris, each of them wearing clothes with world renowned logos, sniffing
cocaine, in fact typical new money behavior – We are rich! All of a sudden, a woman entered the
premises. She was like Grace Kelly. Wearing only white clothes, no jewelry, no logos,
nothing mega….she was stunningly beautiful, because she was so natural, clean,
and simple. She entered the premises and everybody went quite, froze, and went
rigid. Why? Because she created a distance through her cleanliness, her purity: Pure Distance.
I was thinking that it is great name for the
brand, because I don’t like the showy substantiation of my position, logos and all those
things. Who I am is about what I say, what I think…..the same with the products
of Puredistance. Yes, they are expensive, but money is pumped in the product.
They have excellent quality. This is the way we try to serve our clients, be
candid, and never lie – that is also purity. I don’t want to be a hollow glamour & glitter brand, everywhere
golden things….we are simple and frugal, the packaging and everything around
it, but with style as Grace Kelly. That is the reason that I think it is a
great name for the brand. And then people are saying: “ooo perfume should not
create distance”…and I say no, think deeper, feel the concept of the word, it is the philosophy, the way to be. And that is the story behind the name
Puredistance.
2. And why just
perfumes?
J.E.
Vos: It is not because as many people say: “I was
2 years old and fell in love with perfume…” No. It was
not my case. I used Antaeus from Chanel, just normally, perfume was not my obsession, but during my life, I developed a passion for beauty and elegance.
As a photographer, designer and in my private life I am fond of architecture,
I love beauty. When I sold my company and my photo business, I asked myself “what
next”? Then I read a book about Coco Chanel, her biography and it was fascinating
for me. She created before more than a hundred years Chanel No. 5 and still
after more than a hundred years No. 5 is a miracle. People love it and if you would
of change it, people would be unhappy, similar as Coca Cola is not changing his
recipes. I thought that perfume may be the perfect tool to express myself,
because around perfume you need to dream about beauty, you need photography,
you need design, you need to develop a brand, you need to establish
distribution, etc. and all those things are things that I like and done them
before. I like to travel, like to know people, like to create beauty, like to
make people happy. With perfumes I can do all this at the same time. Except one
thing, I am not able to create a perfume. That’s why I tried to create
the best possible concept and searched the best perfumers. If I were to choose
another product, probably I would have had to change it with time as in
fashion. There it is change, change, change….but perfume if it’s good it’s timeless, there
is no need to change it. That’s why I see in perfumes the opportunity to build
something permanent. That is why it had to be perfume.
Technically I don’t know a lot
about perfumes, that’s why I am asking
journalists not to ask me about the ingredients, those are known to my
perfumers, I am the one that offers the vision that creates the concept, and
the perfumers are transforming it to its liquid form. Then I intuitively feel if their creations match my concept
- I don’t want to
analyze, even I am not asking them what ingredients they used…it is similar as with a
book: aha, there is M and N a E, those letters are not saying anything about
the story.
3. Then why just
niche?
J.E.
Vos: The answer is simple. My belief is: “what is
small is beautiful, and less is more”. I don’t like big companies, mass production. I think for many people Ikea is a great
store with great products, but some people prefer a small
furniture shops that make something specific and unique.
4. What is your
view about exclusivity? In what way is your philosophy your direction
different? Several other major brands with mass produced perfumes, frequently
are using the word exclusive, quality. In what is the difference?
J.E. Vos: I see the main issue in the quantity. If we
produce 5000 units, world renowned big companies are making 5 million. We have
70 point of sales worldwide in 35 countries. Big companies have 7000 or more. We
develop yearly only one perfume, big companies swamp one after the other. Everything we do
manually, packaging, filling and supply directly without distributors, except
one exception. It means we have control over every aspect of the quality. We
are personally acquainted with the people that sell our perfumes. In such a
way, we open a direct line between us and the clients, which creates a real
exclusivity compared to the big companies.
5. In your
perfumes, you have the highest concentration of oils in the market, between 25
up to 38% of perfume oils. What was the reason?
J.E.
Vos: When I started the road in the perfume world, I
wanted to create the best of the best. I started to research, started to read
and order daily from eBay old perfume classics. I learned that real perfume not
only lasts longer on the skin, which is a plus, but the longer it remains on
the skin, the greater the opportunity for its development. It’s like a
pilgrimage, a road (voyage) when the fragrance is changing. The second reason
is, that the higher the amount of perfume oils the better blends with your
skin. Then it is markedly richer, more complex and longer lasting experience.
6. Based on what
you choose where to place your perfumes, meaning in which perfumery you will
sell your perfumes, and in which not?
J.E.
Vos: Our perfumes may be sold in whatever country in
the world, because everywhere in the world there are people that are able to
appreciate our perfumes, but we are searching for places, where our perfumes
get the attention that they merit. People that are selling our perfumes must
have the knowledge about our perfumes, must really like our brand, if they don’t like it, it
will be difficult to sincerely offer them and if it is only for money, then I
don’t
want such people. They should be able to present our perfumes visually as well.
We are a visually rich company. We have several visual accessories to present
our perfumes, which helps to present the DNA of our brand. As when you buy a
ring from Cartier. It is not only a ring. You see all the world of Cartier.
Those are all the colors, the design of the accessories. Simply those that want
to sell us, have to understand our philosophy.
7. Puredistance as
brand, revealed to the world its first perfume in 2008. What changed from the
time you started and if you would of start today, what you would do
differently?
J.E.
Vos: We make mistakes. If I would had to start again,
I would like to make them all again in the same order. Because we are learning
from our mistakes. We are a successful company with happy employees. People
selling us are happy, our clients are happy. The feeling that it could been
better is not hunting me. We made a lot of mistakes, but those mistakes made us
original. When I started, I knew nothing about perfumes. I made a perfume with
17,5 ml in the bottle, which at the time nobody had on the market. Why? Because
I didn’t know better. Look now. How many already offer small quantities and higher percentage of perfume.… What may look as a mistake, may develop totally differently. People
often say don’t do that, don’t do this and I say them: “I will still do it because it’s authentic
because I believe in it”. So I would repeat all the “mistakes”.
8. In your
portfolio you have six unique perfumes. Each inspired by something else. Opardu
– inspired by a painting of flower bouquet from Kees van Dangen, M- perfume
inspired by the leather interior of Aston Martin, the car of James Bond, the
newest White as a white and golden dream, instant happiness, escape from
reality….Tell us what inspires you, how comes the decision: “yes, that I want
to put in a perfume”?
J.E.
Vos: I think that each of us is formed by the DNA
from our mother, father, grandmother, grandfather…the longer you at your family
lineage, you say: aha I am a bit as my grandfather, aha I am a bit as my father…one
of my grandfathers was an inventor, while the other was a preacher pastor. He
was preaching to people and saying don’t do this and don’t do that. I am not so
religious, but I think that I have something from him. I have the need to tell
things to the people. To relay them a message. Something that I think may make
the life of people nicer, better…
as I wanted to say in Puredistance “I” to people
not to squander their money on logos and brands and all that. It is totally ok
to buy something expensive, but it needs to have heart in it. That was the legacy in Puredistance I.
Sometimes simple things are better than things that are already over the crest.
Regarding Puredistance “M” I always was
fascinated by the world of James Bond. Because life can be boring and that was
an escape from it. I like the concept of excitement. The color of the 17,5ml
bottle of “M” is gray, the same shade as the as the original Aston Martin DB6
of James Bond, there is the letter “M” which is the boss of James Bond, and the
flacon looks like a flying bullet. In
the perfume you sense leather that represents a kind of excitement that he
experienced on the journeys in his car which traveled a lot of kilometers, you
may feel a bit of oriental tones that represents the smell of far away and
adventure, because James Bond traveled a lot. In the perfume you feel heat,
because James Bond in the films was frequently presented with beautiful woman
near a fireplace…there more and more messages….so the legacy is to enjoy life.
With Puredistance Black it was a more profound
message. For years it irritated me to see how the young generation share and
shows everything. On Facebook, twitter, Instagram…simply showing everything,
their bodies, what they do, each and every detail, and I think this is not wise. We need to
have some secrets. Also, rationality overcomes intuition. We rationalize and analyze
everything. Look at the newspapers. We see stupid statistics which say nothing.
When you give people a perfume, they start to investigate about the individual components. Puredistance Black is my delegacy that the
things that are hidden and
‘in the dark’ can be more interesting. So let’s not analyze everything,
close our eyes, it becomes dark and then we can “feel” much better. (To
Puredistance Black the ingredients where not published – NW remark).
And the last one, Puredistance White. So many
people around me are using antidepressives, or alcohol that temporarily helps them, but at the end of the day comes
the side effects, drunkenness…antidepressives makes your behavior flat, and so
you lose the bad and the nice emotions.
I wanted to launch a perfume that makes people really happy. Of course in the
Puredistance tradition. Quality ingredients, timeless beauty, but really
bringing enjoyment. It was very
difficult to develop it, because after almost an year
of development we stopped the work. It became a sweet Cocos – beach and I said stop.
We started all over again, from
scratch, and I was pleasantly surprised of the results. We received incredible
positive reactions. Some people where sceptic about the story of the fragrance,
but when they smelled it, they said yes, and started to smile. They understood
that it’s not marketing, but something that really works. So the concept of
Puredistance White is something that helps but without the side effects. It is
better than Prozac, then alcohol, then gambling. It is a legal evasion from the
cruel life, because life can be cruel.
9. For a moment I
want to return to “M”, I know that we spoke about it, but why “M”?
J.E.
Vos: I am from the Netherland. We are quite open.
Here you can be gay, have a different religion, whatever “handicap”, it is ok.
But in some of the other countries, people like to “box” things. Then there
comes questions like: is this for men, is this for women? And I say it does not
matter. That who likes it, should wear it. By example an apple, it is for men
or women? I don’t care. But today, the big companies are manufacturing shampoos for
women, shampoos for men, shampoos for….This is only to sell more! In 20 years, you will
buy a laptop which is
designed for a 15 years old girl with red hair who wears glasses and likes rabbits. (laughing). When you turn the letter “M” upside down as a
man you will get “W” as a woman. It’s about that.
10. In your mind
there is already the next perfume, or you are waiting for the right
inspiration?
J.E.
Vos: Yes, I am working on two perfumes with two
perfumers, but I think that it will take some time. I have nowhere to hurry.
One of them has a very interesting concept that I like very much. I think that
it will be very, very interesting….it is….it is….I don’t want to divulge
it (great laugh).
11. Do you wear one
of your perfumes, or you have a personal perfume?
J.E.
Vos: If I have to be honest, I am still wearing
Chanel Anteus, because it is 30 years of my history, my life, closed in a
flacon. For me it is like a
long relationship. The longer we are together, it is
stronger. Why? Because I have with it so much memories. No perfume can override
30 years of memories. Occasionally I wear “M” and a few times during the month “Black”. “M” when I want to stand out more, “Black” when
I want to remain more in the background, behind the curtains.
12. Your most
favorite fragrant memoir?
J.E. Vos: When I had 14-15-16 years and attending gymnasium
in the Netherlands. I was lucky, I was born with a high discipline and a good brain,
it was a quite liberal school, so I could jump over some classes, not
officially, not “aloud” (lough) and in the spring, summer, instead school, I
went to the park, lie down on the grass, and feel its smell. For me the smell
of grass is absolute freedom. Why? Everyone is in the school, I am not. I have
no feelings of distress, spring is pleasant, fresh. I don’t like winter so much. So
the smell of grass is for me the most intensive fragrant memoir.
13. If you would
have to create in Puredistance a perfume named “morning after a “white” night” how
would it smell?
J.E.
Vos: On one side it will depend on the perfumer how
he would materialize my concept, on the other hand it would depend on my
vision. I always try to find beauty and also in this concept….I think I would
try to communicate to the perfumer the idea of leaving things to flow,
surrender of control over others, the idea of a certain form irresponsibility.
Because after a white night, you may arrive to a point when everything is
indifferent for you. You may not give a shit about the world, about your
turn-coat wife, about your nonfunctioning car…simply you can leave everything
as it is. And if you really leave things as they are, things will start to
improve. We are obsessed with having everything under control, but things that
we really care about we are unable to have them under control. Health,
relationships….it is only an illusion. If we learn to simply say “don’t give a shit
about it” it is like a big release. So my concept for this theme would be that
fantastic feel, when we stop trying to have absolutely everything under
control. And if we will really do this, things will start to really improve
themselves automatically.
14. How Puredistance
influenced your view about perfumes? Do you perceive them differently than
before when you had no idea that once you will professionally work in the
perfume world?
J.E.
Vos: It teaches me that there are huge differences in
quality. Before I started with perfumes, I did not realize the fact, that the
average manufacturing price of the big worldwide brands is disproportionately lower than the selling price. I found that most of the money you pay for mass
perfumes goes to marketing and advertising. But in the niche world of Perfumes
I found very passionate people and companies that spend every euro they earn on
creating the best possible perfumes. And few companies in the niche world
advertise, there is no money for this, since all goes into the products. So I
discovered the big difference in quality between most mass marketed perfumes
and true niche perfumes.
15. If you would of
have the power to fundamentally change something in the world of perfumes, what
it would be?
J.E.
Vos: If I really could, I would snap my fingers, and
at once all those in the perfume industry to who it concerns would stop to lye,
saying trash, and would invest in their work more ardor and would create
products that bear legacy and heritage.
16. What do you buy
most likely? With what you make yourself happy?
J.E.
Vos: I like it when I really feel like a child,
behave like a child. It is demanding to be like a child when you are a grown up
and know how things are, how it works. I think it is magic to achieve again the
feeling that all the world is a great adventure. I spent the summer with my
wife at Ibiza. We went to see in small dinghy, and suddenly I cried to my wife:
look look…there where about 50 fishes jumping out of the water. I heard before
about flying fishes, but it got me, and I was shouting: they fly, they are
flying like birds, look, and look. I was so fascinated because never in my life
before have I seen anything like this….I love experiences. To feel that again I
can be delighted as a child.
When you invited me, we spoke about an Aston
Martin displayed inside the hotel as a symbol related to Puredistance perfume “M”.
And you did not forget to suggest to bring with myself the James Bond suit. I joked, but I did remember I once
purchased a blue - James Bond like - tuxedo, because I don’t like to do
things that everyone is doing, everyone is having a black tuxedo. But normally I wear
jeans and t-shirts. Sometimes I wear a
suit, but never a necktie. So I never wore this blue tuxedo. So
for this occasions I had my blue smoking prepared. But then I said to myself no. I don’t want to copy
Daniel Craig in a in a way that is not me. Yes, I look nice in it, but it’s not me.
So I started to google around James Bond’s clothing, and to my surprise there are many
webpages dedicated only to James Bond clothing. Companies that make copies of
his clothing, collectors, you tube videos, etc. Then I noticed that in the next
film he wears a turtleneck from a London based company, N. Peal, a small, private,
existing from 1936, with one flagship store, making gorgeous things, expensive, but
with quality. I said to myself: That’s funny. In the winter, I always wear turtlenecks. That’s me. So I
ordered it. They had one in gray, and one in blue. I was leaving at four a
clock today, and at three the courier arrived with the package. And look what I
am wearing. The same turtleneck that Daniel Craig in the new Bond. I am very
satisfied. It sits well on me, and it is very enjoyable. It is cashmere. So I
came dressed like James Bond, but remained authentic, remained myself. And that
was the last thing that with which I made myself happy.
17. City or the
country?
J.E.
Vos: I was born in September, so I am a Libra. I need
and search for balance. I love the city because of inspiration, but I love the
country as well for its calmness, quiet and nature. I need both of them. I have
a house on an island, I planted around it a forest of 30 000 m2 and that
is for me isolation from the surrounding world. There is a beach there as well,
where I go to admire nature. But I gladly go to Paris, New York for 4-5 days to
absorb inspiration from people.
18. Coffee or tea?
Jasmin tea.
Black
or White?
White.
Morning
bird, or night owl?
Night owl.
Paris,
London or New York?
Hmmm…Paris, because
deep inside I am a hopeless romantic.
19. Can perfume
change the world?
J.E.
Vos: In a very small way yes. There is no one thing
that can totally change the world. Except a meteorite (lough). Therefore the
question is, in what way can perfume change the world to become a better place?
So as I said before, less lies in perfumes and more originality, authenticity
and real heritage. All that changes the clients, and drives them to think that
to buy something that has no substance based on advertising is foolish and does
not make us better. I think that the biggest problem of humanity is that so many people are
not thinking, just heedlessly follows. Follows the media, celebrities,
politicians….We are increasingly more intelligent, but that doesn’t mean we get WISER…. Maybe we should give more attention to our EQ and our intuition instead
of our IQ.
Thank you for the interview, it was very interesting and
stimulating. I am glad that I had the opportunity to meet you in person, and
inhale more the philosophy of Puredistance, the philosophy of Jan Ewoud Vos.
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