The symbol of “Fleur de Lis” with 1907 written
under it lighted up in another city of Slovakia. The owner of 1907 brand, Evka
Skovranova, on the 3th of September 2015, festively opened her
second niche perfumery. This time in Bratislava. She succeeded in locating it
on the best address, Hviezdoslavovo square, in the Carlton Hotel’s passage. To
the festive opening, respected colleagues from the world of luxury perfumes
came to support her. But the history of the brand starts much earlier. It
started in 2009 when the brand was established. In less than 5 years, on the 16th
of October 2014, the brand presented to the media and the public, their own
line of perfumes 1907, putting Slovakia on the world map of perfumes. On the
shelfs of 1907 cosmetics, perfumes started to keep them company. What happened
within a year and a day from the 16th of October 2014 till today?
Evka Skovranova responds to the questions.
1. Let’s go back 366 days. What this
day meant for the perfume brand 1907?
On the 16th of October 2014, for the
first time the perfume line of 1907 brand was presented to the public. Three
days later, the first perfume of 1907 was sold in Paris. It was the “Pepper”
fragrance. Then the first blogs about us where published abroad. It was a shock
for me, we were not prepared for such an avalanche. From Paris, the brand
started to spread to other cities in Europe.
2. So emotions were at its highest.
How did you lived over with them? (how did you lived with them?)
When it was clear that all the line of 1907’s
perfume is going to Paris, came a huge emotional explosion. It was a dream
coming true, and it took me some time to realize that it’s for real. Reality
that it was hard to believe. I could not stop crying from happiness.
3. From those days a year went by,
what happened during this time?
The brand got in other European cities, we are
working on another perfume line that will be quite different that the first
one. The first line honors a concrete perfume ingredient. With the second line,
we want to show another sophisticated beauty of perfumes. Master perfumers are
already working on the assignments. We really are not in a hurry. During the
next year we want to bring out the first perfumes of the second line.
4. Why did you decide to offer other
niche brands apart yours as well in your perfumeries?
To show people that there is also a different
world of perfumes hiding behind the word niche perfumes, independent perfumes,
artistic perfumes…. perfumes with a story, emotion, image, that are presented
and sold in a totally different way as people are used to it.
5. So in what it is different than
the usual?
The usual is to live fast, buy fast, consume
fast. We try to pull people to another world, the world of tranquility,
fantasy. The shopper that comes to us should have time, an open mind, and
looking for something different than he can buy in the classical perfumeries.
The buying process of such a perfume should be relaxing, something pleasant
that he should dedicate time to it. It is not about spraying the perfume on the
hand and going away. It is like about selecting your partner, it also needs
time, and needs to sit well with you.
Perfume is your second skin, it is a fragrant
signature, something you don’t see, but your entourage subconsciously
perceives. That’s why it should be the best representation of your personality,
and the way you want to present yourself.
6. What angers you the most in the
perfume world?
It angers me that the goal of some of the
brands is to sell whatever, wherever possible, just to sell as much as
possible. It loses the quality and originality. Marketing and advertisement are
doing their job. If you take a look at peoples shelfs of perfumes, you will
find more or less the same brands. It is enough to just sit down somewhere, and
in an hour at least 3 women will pass by with the same perfume. For me to speak
about those perfumes about originality is really hard. It makes me angry.
7. With what the perfume world makes
you happiest?
It makes me happy that honest perfumery still
exists, that works as in the old times. It is not for everyone. No big
quantities are manufactured, and the highest quality of ingredients are used.
These ingredients are demanding from financial point of view, and those that
manufacture in big amounts cannot afford to buy them. There still are master
perfumers and brands, that preferred quality and originality before quantity,
love and ardor before profit. With that I don’t want to say that they don’t
want to sell their perfumes, they do, but not wherever, and under whatever
conditions. They are not pushing to the masses their perfumes with advertising,
the best advertising for these perfumes is the quality and enjoyment of the
clients. If a client is satisfied, will express the satisfaction by
recommending, and that is the best advertising.
8. Would it be simpler elsewhere
than in Slovakia?
Sure. It would be simpler doing it elsewhere.
In Slovakia there is no background that you could rely upon. There are almost
no raw materials, no master perfumer resides in here. In Slovakia there is no
one with whom to make highest quality perfumes. Selling this kind of perfumes
is also simpler abroad. Here there is still a small percentage of clients
prepared for another type of service when buying a perfume. The majority is
used to come into a perfumery, take from the shelf a tester, spray it, smell
it, buy it or not. Here perfumes are purchased impulsively. In specialized
perfumeries as also ours, it is not working like that, this type of perfumeries
has trained personnel that provides a wider service to the client. Niche
perfumery is another world, world of pictures, emotions, dreams, stories. It is
best to let the professional to speak, and listen to him, it is an adventure, a
trip to another world, an other reality.
1907 Košice 1907 Bratislava |
9. Why did you decide that you will
be the one to change it?
It was natural and also with the sentence:
don’t say that it is impossible, because somebody who does not know that it is
impossible will do it. Everybody was telling me that making your way out of
Slovakia with perfumes made in Slovakia is not real, and it is only money thrown
away. 1907 made it and stands on shelfs in perfumeries abroad, and is sold the
same way as other brands made abroad..
10. From where the ideas for your
perfumes are coming?
The first line was the fascination with an
ingredient, and memories, the surfacing of a memory. One of these memories is
Almond. Those are grandmothers candy, although the perfume itself has no sweet
fragrance, but contains almond butter.
11. If you had to evaluate the past
year, what was it about?
For sure it was fast, at some moments wild. It
started in January 2015, when we went to China and presented niche perfumes
from Europe, we had lectures, prepared our new perfumery in Bratislava that we
grandly opened on the 3d of September in Carlton Hotels passage. Two days at
home, and departure to world exposition PITTI FRAGRANCE in Florence, in the
mean time working on the second line of our perfumes, and now preparing for
Christmas, and Christmas presentations.
12. A normal day, how does it looks
for you?
Waking up, drinking the morning coffee, and
feigning that I still don’t exists. Sometimes I don’t know if it is weekend, or
a normal working day. If I am going to manufacturing shop, I am leaving after
the morning coffee, and coming home sometimes in the evening, even in the
night. If it is a day that I am going to the perfumery, than it is about
administrative work, creative work, presentations….there is always something to
do.
13. In what your perfumes are
different?
The philosophy of the first line was to connect
to the family tradition, and make perfumes that thematically are about one
ingredient, soliflors as it was in the past, by example violet, lily of the
valley. Our perfumes have no colorants, and Vanilla has no allergens, if you
are not allergic to alcohol. The allergens where extracted during the manufacturing of the fragrance
base. Nevertheless, the perfume contains Bourbon Vanilla essence, that is
considered the best in the world. We are not the only brand that have
soliflors, quite a few niche brands have their lines build on soliflors. Their beauty
is their explicitness and easy readability. The client has nothing to riddle.
Soliflors are build around one main exceptional ingredient, and all other
ingredients of the composition are supporting and completing its beauty.
14. Jasmin of 1907 was declared as
one of the best perfumes of 2014 on one of the most visited perfume blog
abroad. Evidently it captured interest. Why?
Our Jasmin has a very natural smell, it is not
sweet as most of jasmines, it is unintrusive, but catching. For sure it is not
a decorated bouquet of white flowers. It is not a sweet Barbie it is a measured
dame. Even tough with Jasmin it is complicated, you either love it, or hate it.
15. And what about men?
Mr. "Pepper" opened the sales in Paris. It was
the first of our perfumes sold in Paris. Pepper was for me love at first smell.
You defined him right, for me Pepper is a gent. A bit aromatic, a bit dark,
serious, playful, elegant, different from Pine that for me has two bearings.
One position for me is forest after a summer rain. The other is an unbound man
without constraints. Cedar on the other hand reminds me of a well-dressed man,
showered, shaved, cosmopolitan man.
16. What will be the trends in the
coming 10 years, and where do you see yourself?
I don’t know what the trends will be. Typical
niche brands should not follow trends. I can tell you I would like. It would be
the return of honest elaborate special quality chypre fragrances, complex,
unambiguous immutable perfumes, that have their own personality, and you cannot
confound them with anything else. At the moment there are a lot of oud
fragrances on the market, and sweet dried fruits.
So where you see
yourself?
On one hand 10 years is a long time, on the
other hand it is very short. I would be most content with selling 1907 brand in
more countries in the world, and still keeping its independence in the creation
of perfumes.
17. What perfumes you have on your
shelf?
There are several pieces there, something for
the winter, something for the summer and something based on the mood. For sure
Galbanum is there, Verbena, Rose Powder that is not for sale, I made it only for
myself. Initially I had Galbanum only for myself, but my friends liked it so
much, that I released it on the market.
18. Rose Powder, so you have your
personal perfume?
If you look at it like this, then yes. Rose
Powder is something very light, something I made for my own pleasure.
19. Do you make personal perfumes
for others as well?
Yes. But. Personal perfumes are advisable for
mature personalities, that are in sync with their personalities, are clear
about who they are, they don’t have to need to please others, or gratify
everyone, it is for those that disregard if the perfume is to the liking of
their surroundings, they firstly care if they like the perfume. Personal
perfume maximally represents the personality of the wearer, it is original, it
is a real work of art that no copies are made from. The price of personal
perfume is the thousands, as there is only one item made, and as I mentioned,
it is an original. Personal perfume is made by a Master Perfumer.
20. Favorite perfume ingredient?
At the moment iris, but natural one. All the
summer I used iris, now for the winter, I need something more warm. Probably it
will be some kind of chocolate patchouli, or quality umbra. I have more
favorite ingredients, I pick them based on my mood.
21. One of the important, if not the
most important feeling for us is security and assurance. How assurance and
security smells for you?
Safety and security we have on our own ground,
our stereotypes. For me safety smells
like someone who loves me, someone who belongs on my home ground. Someone with
whom I can speak openly. Also my two hairy friends for me are smelling like
security. They can be unbelievably happy when I come home, and be unbelievably
sad when I go away for longer. Each of us has some combination of smells,
rituals, that evokes his feeling of security. It is very individual. A beef
soup may smell as security sometimes, morning coffee, or a perfume that takes
you back to childhood, when you were protected. It is really very individual.
22. I posed this question to the
others interviewed, I am asking you as well. If you would have to create
a perfume named “morning after a “white night” how would it smell?
And after such a night I would go to sleep, or
a normal day was waiting for me?
Ok then, lets
divide it into two, a normal day, and going to sleep as well.
Early morning. I go to sleep. Soap, aldehydes.
Something soft, warm. Amber. Something sweet for nice dreams. Liquor. For
feeling secure – patchouli. I think that being bathed, in a soft bed with sweet
and secure dreams is quite nice after a sleepless night.
A normal day is waiting me. Coffee, chocolate
to pick me up and renewal of energy, replenishing of vitamins citrus fruits,
for maintaining the energy some spices, for oxygen replenishment of the brain,
ozone tones, and for the headache, basil.
Thank you for the
interview.
It’s a blessing when work is also a hobby. Then
its visible. As it is visible on Evka. Evka Skovranova. A woman that did not
give up on her dreams. She put Slovakia in the perfume map of the world, and
brings to the people enjoyment from fragrances full of stories.
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